Michael Hoffmann has been Chef de Cuisine at Berlin's Restaurant Margaux since 2000
© Laif
© Laif
Summer preserved
In Hoffmann's restaurant with its onyx-paneled walls, most of the guests are from New York and Tokyo, as is often the case. "Berlin is a difficult venue for this kind of cuisine," remarks Kathrin Hoffmann. Then too, Berliners are not big spenders. But Hoffmann, who is an exception in the world of top restaurants, has to manage without the backing of a chain of hotels or an empire of bistro restaurants. That's why he charges as much for his vegetable cuisine as other restaurants do for lobster and similar delicacies.
Nonetheless, his prices are reasonable if you keep in mind the effort involved, and especially the taste experiences he offers. The taste of Hoffmann's dishes benefits from his sophisticated techniques for preserving food. "We put up more than 5,000 jars of vegetables for our own use every year," he says, pointing to a narrow jar containing bronze fennel which — now that it's been made "timeless" — retains its aroma no matter what the season.
Hoffmann is an avant-garde artist, even though he rejects both terms. Instead, he regards himself as a composer and claims he doesn't pursue vegetarianism as an ideology. "I simply notice that I feel very good after having a meal of vegetables," he says. Is it possible for others to duplicate his cuisine at home? Hoffmann, who tends to avoid public events and television cooking shows, smiles. "Well, that involves quite a lot of effort..." he says. All the same, his concept of vegetable cooking will be influential, directly and indirectly. After all, it's characterized by an unusual kind of respect for the (natural) riches of the (garden's) earth.
In Hoffmann's restaurant with its onyx-paneled walls, most of the guests are from New York and Tokyo, as is often the case. "Berlin is a difficult venue for this kind of cuisine," remarks Kathrin Hoffmann. Then too, Berliners are not big spenders. But Hoffmann, who is an exception in the world of top restaurants, has to manage without the backing of a chain of hotels or an empire of bistro restaurants. That's why he charges as much for his vegetable cuisine as other restaurants do for lobster and similar delicacies.
Nonetheless, his prices are reasonable if you keep in mind the effort involved, and especially the taste experiences he offers. The taste of Hoffmann's dishes benefits from his sophisticated techniques for preserving food. "We put up more than 5,000 jars of vegetables for our own use every year," he says, pointing to a narrow jar containing bronze fennel which — now that it's been made "timeless" — retains its aroma no matter what the season.
Hoffmann is an avant-garde artist, even though he rejects both terms. Instead, he regards himself as a composer and claims he doesn't pursue vegetarianism as an ideology. "I simply notice that I feel very good after having a meal of vegetables," he says. Is it possible for others to duplicate his cuisine at home? Hoffmann, who tends to avoid public events and television cooking shows, smiles. "Well, that involves quite a lot of effort..." he says. All the same, his concept of vegetable cooking will be influential, directly and indirectly. After all, it's characterized by an unusual kind of respect for the (natural) riches of the (garden's) earth.
The chef Michael Hoffmann also harvests grapes in his approximately one-hectare garden
© Dpa
© Dpa
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